Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/24/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    All in all it went well, everything work except the following: Jetting is way too rich, top and bottom. Will keep it as is for now as I break in the engine, then I'll fine tune it when I switch to synth mix at 4% Gears clunk, I need to tighten the clutch cable a little Horn not working at all. It's a 6VAC that I'm using with the 12V varitronic, it should work but instead it does nothing. When lights are on and I try to use it, lights turn off. Mmh One seat spring broke off, easy fix Some dark goop seeping from the exhaust flange at the cylinder. The flange is super tight and I've used a high-quality copper gasket, it might just be because of the extra assembly lube I used. I'll clean it up and see how it goes for the next few miles. All in all I'm happy, no major problems for now.
  2. 5 points
    Next is the Casa Case scooter. 1967 Lambretta Li150.
  3. 4 points
    Putting the pieces together.
  4. 3 points
    Today I finished the last detail...my grandpa used to say that doing things right always helps you save half the time...in fact I tried to fiddle with the throttle cable that was clearly too short. trying to reroute, bend it here and there...but ended up wasting time and the LD was still accelerating while on the stand. So I came up with this solution, hope it will help other folks that run PHBGs on these scooters. You need a 90 degree and a 40 degree elbow kit. If you are good at machining, you can build an adapter (male M5x0.75 to female M6x0.75) or if you can't, you can buy a small aluminum spacer (I found it at ACE) that you can use as a sleeve connector. I drilled it with a 15/64 bit, which is about 5.95mm. Once you make the hole you end up at around 5.97 while the Dell'Orto elbows are 6mm OD, just perfect for an interference fit. I simply heated the connector and pushed the two elbows in by hand As you can see the cable ends in a better location, having enough slack to operate correctly
  5. 3 points
    Finally! Few more tweaks and tomorrow we'll hit the road!!!
  6. 3 points
    Finishing 1980 Serveta Jet 200.
  7. 2 points
    Kind of diggin' those seats. I bet they are a darn sight more comfortable than the originals. For the older Mod in us.
  8. 2 points
    Ok it's on it's way to Jon Korge. The heat didn't loosen it enough and I am afraid of causing more damage.
  9. 2 points
    1960 Series 2 265cc - CasaCase, Cyclone 5, Octopus Rear Hub, Improved fan, Casa gear end plate, Casa fan cover, Casa Electronic Kit - When available - Top end, side cover, clutch and exhaust - Casa Double Disc front end, BGM Shocks (F&R), New Casa Ancilotti seat, Jet200 Tank, SIP Speedo - Full fiberglass body parts from Chris at GRP (loop is metal :)) Slight mods - welding up toolbox door, removed the lip from gas door and opened it slightly Will be Subaru Desert Khaki with mostly silver and black accents. Basically all the money people wanted me to invest in the SX is going into the bass boat. Aiming for completion by summer 18. The SX will be pissed.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    I have a ScootRS SX drop headset. It is a chrome ring type. It will go on your Jet with Jet fork and Jet leg shield and will not rub. But there will be a slightly bigger gap between the headset and legshield. And your headset lock will not work.
  12. 1 point
    The jet does not have a chrome ring but if you look at the headset it has a chrome ring type base. The spacing difference is taken up in the legshield. The drop bars you have will rub the legshield.
  13. 1 point
    Obviously, that would since the bearings would be out.
  14. 1 point
    The fork I’m using is original to scooter.
  15. 1 point
    Hotel room is booked. Thank you.
  16. 1 point
    The LD should have a Copper ring exhaust gasket yes? Anneal that sucker so it's good and soft. Also use some copper RTV on it. 6% mix is a lot of oil.
  17. 1 point
    I think so...at least in this case or when there is good grounding through the body Anyways, I found the issue! The white wire was pinched by mistake and it was grounding...that's why the lights went out! Oh well, we all make mistakes
  18. 1 point
    Anyways, here we are! Ready for the first test!
  19. 1 point
    Just enough room to squeeze in some JB weld.
  20. 1 point
    I'm not really happy with the cable routing, throttle too short and gear too long, I will need to do some rerouting, cut&lengthen type of work. Besides that, I'm now left with fixing the front brake clunk (hub locking tab is worn). I'll probably fabricate a copper shim to take out the play
  21. 1 point
    Well I'm glad the rubber saga is over, more progress done! Floor strips, footboard/floorboard extensions, glovebox. This is my final setup. Both clock and speedo are backlit, feed is taken from black cable (rear light) which is 12V AC (I added a fuse in the circuit) then goes into a KOSO AC/DC converted, which feeds 12VDC to the instruments. The clock itself is powered by an E90 battery that you can simply change from underneath the instrument, probably good for a couple of years. A second feed comes from the Varitronic regulator, the red 12VDC battery trickle charge is used to power a USB port for mobile phone charging. That circuit is fused too. Both fuses are installed between the steering column and the legshield.
  22. 1 point
    Thanks! I"ve actually tried that (submerging them in boiling water for 10 minutes) and also smearing soap on the inside to make them slip better...made a lot of difference, from level impossible to level (painfully) possible!
  23. 1 point
    That’s not too bad. Clean it up is my thought, for ocd sake if anything, but you can leave it too.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    For the last 25 years I've used an old timer here for all my cylinder work. Excellent quality, zero problems.
  26. 1 point
    It has taken me twenty years to come up with this advice.
  27. 1 point
    LOL -- I'm going to call upjettr the winner on this one.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    here's mine, bought from the Seattle Auction recently:
  30. 1 point
    if clutch is not adjusted correctly, you'll be able to change out of neutral, but struggle to get back into neutral.. so it could be that...
×