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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/01/2017 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Lazy fuck. SANTA CRUZ!!!!!! 1950's boomtown! Vintage Coach motels, boardwalk, Lost Boys, Monterey is 50 miles away, beaches!!, beach fires, LAGUNA SECA, Steinbeck, chicks with bird tattoos and peckerwood shit!!
  2. 5 points
    Hey guys, Forrest here with Nexgen Precision Finishes. I'm a Lambretta owner and LCUSA member. First of all, big thanks to Mike for the kind words. It was a pleasure working with you and I hope to do more for you in the future. I'm so glad you're happy with the work we did on your SS180 parts Second, I realize there are shops out there with lower labor rates but they often charge for more time so you end up paying about the same as you do with us. Our rate is $100/hr, which is definitely on the low side for any industrial service in Northern California. We also offer reduced rates for shops and we have many restoration shops who send us work from all over the country all the time. Also our attention to detail is extremely high. The work you get from us will be as flawless as possible. Lastly, we have a special process we use that makes our finishes smoother and brighter than what other vapor blasting shops are putting out. I'm not BSing when I say our work is the best, because I absolutely believe it is. We also offer many complimentary services including machining work, welding, powder coating, polishing, anodizing, plating (cad, zinc, nickel, etc.) and just about any kind of finish you can think of. We're gearing up to be a one-stop-shop for any kind of finishing work one would need or want for their restoration project. That means you can send all of your parts to us for finishing, not just cases for vapor blasting, and each and every part will be finished according to our exacting standards. Please email me if you have any questions as I don't check this forum often due to being very busy. My email address is fj@nexgenpf.com and our website is http://www.nexgenpf.com. Thanks and I look forward to working with more fellow LCUSA members! -Forrest
  3. 5 points
    Here's a few pics. The silencers are all machined, 5 pipes welded out of 8. Gotta do spring clips, mounting bracket bushings, pipe mounting, pack silencers, order boxes, coating/painting of some kind, then ship out. I have to take a bit of a break though, because I'm backed up on kits currently. When I'm done with these, I wanna try to get a few ser 3 pipes out the door, then maybe another batch of these. I also plan on being able to make custom silencers to any ID, OD, length, aluminum or carbon fiber outer tubing, for any pipe. These first ones have "reversed end caps" so they bolt together, making re-packing (or re-painting) easier.
  4. 4 points
    Lambretta Riverside Raffle Scooter... more info to come...
  5. 4 points
    Wine country jamboree. camping on the russian river, wine and weed everywhere.
  6. 4 points
    Woohoo! 20 minutes or less to clean the toolbox door. Still have to polish up. Used Krud Cutter Graffiti Remover and a green scotch bright pad. Worked like a charm! As I start doing othere parts with thicker paint, I am using Goof Off Pro Strength Remover till the paint starts to lift, then I go back to Graffiti Remover.
  7. 4 points
    Things are progressing but, like all the projects you need to deal with ups and downs... I've straightened the air scoops, I've found a procedure that works well on pot metal and enabled me to shape them very tightly: you need to bake them in the oven at 350 degrees for 15 minutes, bend them until they cool off at around 100 degrees and repeat. Now I'm going to send them out for vapor blasting, then some filling with all metal, then polishing. I've also found a shop that will fabricate a glovebox door for me, that will take 2 weeks so a change in plan is in order: I will start with painting the hump on the frame, then begin assembly. This will speed up things while I wait for the glovebox to be back and then send all the other parts to be blasted. In the meantime, hopefully the other powder coated parts will come in too so I can start putting together forks, seats, wheels and hubs etc Yesterday I've completed the setup for painting, tomorrow I will start with the epoxy primer
  8. 4 points
    The 2017 CORSA:IFP will be held in Stroudsburg, PA at the Whiskey Dick VI Rally hosted by Middle Of Nowhere Scooter Club! Let's get a bunch of Lambrettas in the race again!! Event Page: https://www.facebook.com/events/1784618468475944/
  9. 3 points
  10. 3 points
  11. 3 points
    Hello everyone. I posted my S2 li125 for sale last week and now I guess it's time to reveal why I parted with a project I was putting that much effort into. Basically, I lucked into this TV175, which is more or less my dream scooter (having anxiety thinking about it) and was in a similar state of restoration as the project I just sold off but had been sitting for 12 years. Bike was originally from South Florida but condition isn't reflective of the humid and salty environment aside from a couple parts like the seat frame being pretty rough and some pitting on the top of the frame under the seat. Otherwise it's complete as it needs to be and similar steps have been taken to restore as the Li125 I have now parted with. Cases had been tumbled long ago and included was the original jug and a new oversized piston along with the original crank, carb, etc. As such, I got to work right away and began the steps to bring the engine together mainly to keep things clean and so I could move a bunch of engine components out of boxes and into the cases. Things were going really well at first until I started to hit issues namely the crank turned out to be too far gone to reuse (odometer shows 14k miles or kilos not sure which I haven't really looked) and slid into the new drive side bearing without so much as a tap from a rubber mallet. Having Jet200 to work at on shop days is great and of course there was a replacement TV crank from Casa Lambretta sitting on the shelf which was an unexpected expense but kept the motor moving along. I also ran into some other issues with new BGM cylinder studs which are larger diameter than their stock replacements and caused some binding when trying to install the jug which required some enlarging of the holes to accommodate installation. That all got sorted yesterday so I can keep moving with some other items going forward but overall I'm really excited to bring a bike that's been sitting for 12 years forward to a place where it can be seen and appreciated again by all of us who like these sort of things. Some items are further behind than my previous S2 project and will need to be addressed in the next week including having some stripping, blasting, and plating chrome work done to get all of the parts prepped and ready for reuse. Gas Tank and Seat will be the big items but the fork links, brake pedal and chrome ring and associated bits all need to be cleaned and replaced but I'm in no rush and our local place charges by the pound so I'll be looking for another scooterist here in town who needs to do the same so we can save a bit of cash on that part of the process and take our items in together. Anyhow, this is the scooter I've always lusted after and never expected to personally own. While it's not strikingly different than the S2 i recently sold at least in terms of final execution of the finished product and overall features of the bike, it's really cool to have the stamps on the cases and frame that say "TV175/2". More to come as I move forward. Cheers.
  12. 3 points
    Still working on my series 2 project but this popped up and as much as it pains me as I'll have to cull the herd by 1 scooter to make some room in the barn, it'll be one of the lesser brands of scooter anyway. I've never really been that into Series 3 scoots but at the Baltimore Rally last weekend I got passed on a very fast P200 I was WOT on by a RB225 Series 3 and now I'm itching for a gofast Lambretta which my Series 2 will not be. Anyhow, big sucker for original paint here which pushed me to pull the trigger. Hopefully it'll be in Denver by September. Some of you probably saw this at the Jammy....it was in Duluth this year.
  13. 2 points
    The First Annual Texas United Scooter Rally will take place at Lady Bird Johnson Park, in Fredericksburg Texas June 9-12 2017. This is a Camping Rally as well as there being plenty of hotels, cabins, and wineries to stay at. All scooters Vintage and Modern are welcome. Fredericksburg has many activities available, 20+ Wineries, and at least 2 breweries. http://www.texasunitedscooterrally.com
  14. 2 points
    trying to keep gary fisher's dream alive of having texas be united in the scooter game.
  15. 2 points
    It was indeed found not even 100 yards from where it was stolen. A great example of opportunistic thievery. Lesson learned. Scoot will now be parked inside the building. Worst part is no one was arrested, despite knowing who did it. The house recovered from is a house of squatters fresh out of jail. Call it my fault, but there is no need to say this to my girlfriend in her post on Facebook. That's on the same lines as calling a girl that has been raped her fault. Thank you to those who showed support, and sincerity.
  16. 2 points
    I made the tool described above by vdublammy. By using it and heat, I was able to successfully remove my chrome ring.
  17. 2 points
    They posted on Facebook that the scooter has been found. Great luck there, eh? Was located not too far from the site from which it was stolen.
  18. 2 points
    It isn't really a bid. I mean, it isn't like there are 12 other groups within the Club putting together something. Gary and I are talking about getting together to chat about it this coming week. I'm sure we'll have others in for the talk as well. But keep in mind the only reason I thought of Santa Cruz is that it is a place I'd love to see a Lambretta Jamboree. The idea of driving around in circles in the city I live in and passing it off as something that hasn't been done so many times before it is completely unappealing. I can't imagine that is what people would want to experience. I'll add that most Lambretta owners I know aren't in the LCUSA. They don't care. Tell them there is a ride and maybe they'll call you the morning of the ride and ask you why their scooter won't start or if you have a spare tire tube. So I'm not interested in throwing the kind of event other people want - I'm interested in doing it the way I would like it to be. I'm confident that there are enough people interested in something similar. But how to pull it together and pull it off? Fuck if I know, but I'm willing to put whatever effort I can manage into it.
  19. 2 points
  20. 2 points
    I'd ride to that!
  21. 2 points
    Easiest way I have found: remove stand, cut off what is left of the rubber feet. Cut of what is left of the pin flush with the stand and finish of with a die grinder, cut off wheel or file to make sure it is exactly flush. Hold stand over something solid to brace it, with a hole or gap for the pin to come through(I use big 'ol Bertha vice). Using the CORRECT DIAMETER DRIFT, hammer the pins out. Paint a little clearcoat on the stand where you got grindy(to stop rust, it's under the boot area and won't be seen) When fitting the new pin, make more of a taper on one end than they come with when purchased(use a grinding wheel or die grinder) this helps them ease back into the stand hole. Stick the boot on, line up the hole, stick the pin in and have at it with you trusty hammer. Have removed hundreds of sets of boots using this method and have yet not had one pin that would not budge. A little copper non-sieze grease on the pin and in the stand hole will make the job of removing the pin next time you have to do the job a lot easier...
  22. 2 points
    Looks like you've already got a lot of great options here, but I figured I'd share my experience. I used Arnold's Design out of Ridgeway, PA. Brad was super helpful and responsive. He did a great job. He de-greased, cleaned and vapor blasted three parts for me (case, cover and flange) and he found a broken screw that he extracted for me, as well. It cost me less than $200 (not including shipping costs). I highly recommend him. http://www.arnoldsdesign.com/index.html
  23. 2 points
  24. 2 points
    Hi All, Forrest at NexGen is a great guy, and he's a scooterist. He recently cleaned up some V3$p@ SS 180 cases for me. He lives in the south bay and I live in Alameda (about an hour apart). He picked up and delivered the cases for free. Here are pics of my cases. Absolutely beautiful. The shop is just him and his wife. They are expecting their first child in June, so it makes me feel even better supporting him.
  25. 2 points
    Love it - my favorite too. Looking forward to your progress and riding the streets of Denver with you sir.
  26. 2 points
    After the final alignment check I've disassembled everything and sent frame, fork, wheels hubs and misc bits to the powder coaters and took off for a week vacation. When I get back , I will send the panels to a media blaster and paint them myself. In the meantime I'm working on a different project...a clock reproduction and LED lighting for clock and speedo. I've gone through several prototypes, I'm finally getting very close. The backlighting will be connected to the main switch so it will work in sync with the lights. The clock will feature a quartz movement, look cosmetically identical to the OEM, but it will be battery operated. The battery should last a couple of years (compared to 2 days of the manual winding of the OEM clock). Changing battery and setting the time can be achieved by simply reaching inside the glovebox.
  27. 2 points
    ...things moving slow since I was working on a parallel project, but today I'e completed the small stuff like painting the gear selector, speedo needle and few other small things.
  28. 2 points
    All thread and engine cone and added a washer to the top.
  29. 2 points
    Damn mopeds!!! I like that spreadsheet format. I much prefer a locked up form than a forum-type submission. It would suck to have dig through 6 pages of my witty comments.
  30. 1 point
    That's a better method than the blind puller. I made the same tool except ran the rod through the cone so it would extend past the ring hole and help keep things in place. There is also a special tool for getting the ring back in place.
  31. 1 point
    and texas does have some great small historic towns all around the big cities
  32. 1 point
    There is a huge campground with cabins and such about 10 miles North...
  33. 1 point
    I'm down wherever its at.
  34. 1 point
    Wine country would be spectacular!
  35. 1 point
    1981 Serveta Li150 Frame Number:150li326464 Off white, speckled black from previous owner(s) Black Headset top. Partially polished horncast with serveta badge. Piston Ported (Ancillotti Seat) with matching rack Jet200 Lifetime Tank Dellorto 28mm Carb with Marchald Pancake Filter BGM 195 RT Kit Underpanel Storage box with Miscellaneous Tools in a Chrome Industries Hip Bag Left side Shifter lacks Cev Switch. Light/Horn switched moved to right side.
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    Dammit Mike, I was hoping for Corona or Palm Desert...
  38. 1 point
    Might as well let it out, we all know it's going to be in Bakersfield. Stupid hot weather, SUV's as far as the eye can see and all the meth heads you can out run. Seriously though, California sounds good to me.
  39. 1 point
    Don't. The bit will break. Use heat, penetrant and another pin to drive them out.
  40. 1 point
    good job. I was going to suggest tackling it from the gearbox side and knock the axle in away from the hub, this way you don't risk warping the hub, but it sounds like you're all set.
  41. 1 point
    I got it off. I used the big puller and wound it down as tight as i could get it. I then proceeded heating the hub a little ways out from the shaft. After a few minutes the hub popped!!!! off. Thanks!
  42. 1 point
    That skim of bondo says bodge...
  43. 1 point
    Please get me the numbers on this bike. I'll add it to the list. thanks
  44. 1 point
    I will do as you suggest, starting out slow. The spray paint is on the legsheild, front fender, left floorboard, toolbox door, bridge peice, frame arch. As for the rust on small parts I have a Tupper ware tub with rust remover I dip parts in. For the larger parts, Im just going to rub down with steel wool, and finish with acf 50. It's going to be a sleeper. Looks rough but clean, modern brakes and suspension with a reedvalved rapido.
  45. 1 point
    Congratulations to all the people who got their name drawn!
  46. 1 point
    Yes that could be your grounding problem. All those wires need to be connected to work right. That pilot lamp (as well as the speedo and tail light) can all be sourced locally at any auto parts store. The junction box that was suggested is an all common one. All pairs, except for the greens, are common to each other. This makes it easy to get all the wires to hit the same point in the system (electrically). If you went with a simplified loom you wouldn't need a junction block but that's a pain to swap out.
  47. 1 point
    Yep. It ties to the pilot light ground. Not a great system but it works as long as the speedo cable is connected.
  48. 1 point
    For the case side you can engage the clutch lever and from the carb side gently tap at the base of the breather plug. You will need to use a long peice of wood that will pass under the frame and rest against the base of the breather plug. Tap gently. You are just trying to slightly break the seal of the gasket. If you tap at the round part of the breather, it will collapse. Engage the clutch at the same time. It will push the case side out. For the rear hub nut, if you do not have a hub holding tool you will need to use a breaker bar. Buy a 3 foot long section of pipe that will fit over the handle of your wratchet, engage the rear brake and use some muscle. The picture of the motor out of the bike is just for reference of the location and position.
  49. 1 point
    There are a few ways to test them connect to a bike with an electronic and measure the output find an AC wall wart thats more then 12v (18-24). Connect and test. Do a poor mans 12v on a 6v bike (common all light wires). the problem is they are so flippin cheap to replace now that you're actually loosing money in the time it takes you to test them.
  50. 1 point
    Here are some pictures of the slight modifications I made. You can line the up the center stand rubber with the hole just by sticking a phillips head screwdriver down it and feeling for the hole. Use the die on the emblems and check the fit with the nuts before mounting. The little LEDs in the license plate mounting bolts provide plenty of light for the plates, even if one were to go out. Finally, the LED tail light bulbs that worked for me are shown.