Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/26/2017 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Ha! Yeah, that's real wear and tear. Finished! It screams! The horn doesn't work and there is no speedo. I'll deal with that later. Runs a little rich in mid range with a 300 main so I will drop the needle a clip or 2. It also has a 30 idle jet. Thanks to Solerunner1 for selling me the bike and the top end work , Boeingpilot for the electical help on his family day, Tinman for the carb., Mike Anhalt fot the disc, and everyone here who gave input and thanks to scooterspeed for parts. See you at LammyJammy!
  2. 7 points
    Greetings and congratulations for this great forum. I show you my Lambrettas, all Eibar, i have too a V3$p@, I hope you forgive her.
  3. 6 points
    The challenge of reaching the "7th Challenge of Lagos de Covadonga". They say that the LD do not walk, and it is true that they are slow, but since six years ago the restoration of my Eibar´s Lambretta LD of 1958 was around my head the idea of drive it for the Asturias roads, . Last year he traveled in tow to Ribadesella, to participate in the 6th Challenge "Lagos de Covadonga", but because of a poor gasoline I had to get on a loaned bike. This year the idea was to travel from Madrid on it and enjoy the route and the hospitality of the V3$p@ Club of Asturias. Thanks to my friend Carlos Tejera, who accompanied me on a V3$p@ CL 150, I was able to fulfill that dream. The route of the Desafío always leaves of Ribadesella and traditionally climbs until the Lakes of Covadonga. This year has maintained the name but has changed the route: National Parks had authorized the climb of the motorcycle registered, but the Police did not allow it and that is why the organization warned us in June of the change of route. The exit was in Ribadesella but we climbed to Sotres, the highest town of Asturias, at 1050 meters, a route as spectacular or even more so than the ascent to the Covadonga Lakes. The event is more popular each year and the registrations for which we are not partners open and close in minutes. This year in an hour there were 200 motorcycles enrolled, 260 people including the companions. Friday afternoon begins to smell of motor oil in Ribadesella and in the park closed we make the inscriptions. We had the traditional welcome "paella" and left the motorcycles parked in the premises enabled by the organization. On Saturday we started at 11 in the morning; The sky threatened rain and many came out with monkey water but as we were rolling the clear sky allowed us to enjoy the views and the road with dry asphalt. In total there were 175 km of route. To Sotres, with its infinite ramps, the LD went up with two persons and there we enjoyed appetizer, cider, beers, tortilla and "cabrales" cheese, courtesy of the organization. The food at the restaurant Repelao de Covadonga was, as in previous years, spectacular. For 260 people there were ciders, beers and wines, pans of fabes to repeat as much as you wanted, "cachopos" until "fartucarse" and rice with milk and coffee. After the desserts the V3$p@ Club of Asturias recognized the participation of the members of the Lambretta Cbub of Spain with a bottle of cider for its representatives and it rewarded the LD 125 with the trophy to the far more rolling, that has double merit because it was the oldest motorcycle of the concentration. Then in the Sanctuary of Covadonga, group photo and blessing of motorcycles at the door of the Monastery. In the Challenge to Lagos there are two types of inscriptions, the most complete one including the brotherhood dinner on Saturday night. We started at 10 pm at the Gran Hotel del Sella, and ended at 2 am in the hotel and at dawn on the streets of Ribdesella. There were lots of gifts, including a book from the Lambretta factory in Spain, donated by the CLE. So far the chronicle of the 7th challenge, the journey, the route and the details of the trip with the LD have been published in the Lambretta Spain Club forum and at https://desafiolagos2017.wordpress.com/. Just tell you that the bike made more than one thousand kilometers (700 miles) without problems, because having to change a spark plug after 10 hours of operation can not be considered a fault. I encourage you all to ride yours small olds scooters. I could have made the trip with other motorbikes, more powerful and fast, but the experience that I have lived traveling to Asturias with the LD 125 would not have had with them. From Madrid to Asturias, are 450 milles, driving a LD, spend 11 hours, with stops included. 11 hours of curves, landscapes and friendship with platinum spark plugs and three-gear transmission.
  4. 5 points
  5. 5 points
    I had these made for Euro Lambretta, and have some left over that ill be bringing to LJ. Mens size L and XL, and some girlie Ts (Kieran has em, and will be bringing to the rally). Hit me up to reserve one. $12
  6. 5 points
    So this past weekend I completed all the mechanical. Started the bike, idles well, running rich. Brake light works. Just took it up the drive in 1st. Ran in 1st gear well. Front brake works well. Revs are a little long to drop and there was popping like I should check the timing. I did put 9 month old gas in it, so that might be the intermittent popping. The carb is a weird 30 tmx with power jet. As I understand it, you should cut back the main by 25%. I think that works out to if I run a 300 main, I should cut it back to a 220. The power jet is at 80. I am running a 210 main, needle is 2nd clip from the bottom (rich) . Any one familiar with power jets, suggestions appreciated. Yup, gori seat. Thanks. Hey Tony, the disc is an early 90's home made rig.
  7. 4 points
    Hamms at Jet200
  8. 4 points
    Middle Of Nowhere is throwing you guys a party to kick off Lambretta Jamboree! Thursday night King Django, backed by members of Hub City Stompers, will be providing the reggae, ska, and rocksteady !! Tally Ho has given us our own private room and bartender and is located across the street from the hotel.....stumbling distance. We will be there at 6pm to welcome you all. Grab some dinner with us. The band will go on 8pm.
  9. 3 points
    Congrats to Brooklynpete one winning the 2017 Jammy raffle bike!
  10. 3 points
    Just a few from this weekend and it's not done yet! The east coast does not disappoint.
  11. 3 points
  12. 3 points
    Cheers Guys, I managed to get a caged Malossi filter in the end, it seems to be ok, so once he's done a few miles the plug will tell all. But at this point in time it rides nice (although it is running in) and reacts well to the air screw adjustment when setting, plus good response for revving and quick die back afterwards. This engine has been eating pistons (3 in two years) and has zero performance, so it has finally come to me, i think a squish of 2.45mm and the timing set to 31 degrees BTDC are major contributing factors, on top of worn and hardened oil seals running through a viet pipe, and hes now got a No 9 plug and not the No 7 he was running, squish is now 1.45 mm, timing set at 19 BTDC, and a nice Scootopia Ancillotti, plus of course new Rolf seals all round.
  13. 2 points
    That sidewalk welding/brazing is hardcore! Solepower!
  14. 2 points
    More LD junk to disassemble! Daniel picked up this LD at a scooter rally, because he wanted the taillight. Then sold/traded me the rest of the junk, haha. I needed the handlebar, and clamps. So I reluctantly took it. The LD was in Fort Worth, where Andrew lives. I wanted to stop by and see his LD project. I couldn’t wait to get there, just to show up when Andrew was remodeling his house, with the LD in storage at another location. That was a bummer! I did, see that cool LD motor he’s working on. Andrew does clean and detail work. It was fun to finally meet Andrew in person, with Daniel. I get the LD home. What a f__king nightmare, with that old rusty junk smell. When Daniel sold/pawned the rest of the LD off on me. Daniel said, look Anthony, the motor turns over free! Daniel did his best sales pitch! I pull the head off. No Piston! We laughed our asses off! Yes The Motor Turned Free! This always amazes me. The LD was a rusting piece of junk. I pull off the flywheel, and the stator plate parts look good. If the sparkplug coil was hooked up, this motor would have had spark! haha. It took a days to safely remove these parts. To disassemble the handlebar, and restore the rest will take a week. Fun fun fun! As for the LD body and frame. I now have a LD graveyard in my storage. When I finish my LD 150 project, there will be a big LD giveaway! haha. Anthony Armstrong AnthonyScooterWork.com ASD Scooter Designs
  15. 2 points
    I'd rent a car before I uber that far. Enterprise sometimes has deals like $10 a day rentals
  16. 2 points
    Cool place in Allentown if you collect vinyl http://www.doubledeckerrecords.com
  17. 2 points
    Trying to get this finished for Lammy Jammy. I'll try to find before pictures. 1959 Ser.1 with rapido race w/boost port, LTH reedvalve, rayspeed welded crank, Avanti head(R.Moss, A.F. Rayspeed Mammoth head), 12 volt electronic, lightened flywheel, LTH 7 plate clutch, mikuni 30 tmx, Franspeed exhaust, Cyclone 5 (version 2).
  18. 2 points
    The only thing that can cause that noise would be the shift selector in the wrong position. That can only be caused by a cable adjustment issue, gear box problem, machined problem with the layshaft or a machined issue with the selector. Start easy, loosen up the control cables to take the tension off the selector and see what happens. If that doesn't help then check the gear box. Look for signs of the selector paws hitting 1st or 2nd gear. The hard kicking can also be caused by an incorrectly adjusted chain.
  19. 2 points
    Thanks! Unfortunately those replicas are good, but smaller than my original box so I really wanted to keep mine. Luckily, I was able to find a shop (Murray Kustom rods in Fort Worth) who did it for me...few hundred dollars later I got a perfect door. They created a wooden mold, shaped the door, folded the edges and built a hinge..you can see he heat shrinking they did to preserve the corners. That's quality work.
  20. 2 points
    What a great time! Here's a few pics from Italy. over 1000 Lambrettas on the rides. Nearly 2000 Lambrettas. I'll post a link to the flickr album as I shot hundreds of scoots.
  21. 2 points
    3-1/2 years later, I have progress to report! Yes, I have committed the immortal sin of placing one project in front of another! Motor underway too. Assembly begins soon!
  22. 1 point
    Three times around the park, Jeeves -- you know how I like the park.
  23. 1 point
    You use the Vega hubs on the conversion. You actually use the Vega lay shaft. It's the gearbox, crank, cylinder, barrel, head that you change. Depending on the model of Vega, you may also have to change the mag housing too (roller bearing and needle bearing variants). If you put the engine in, then the rear shock mounts are different, so you now get into modifications on that.
  24. 1 point
    Ended up with a new rear hub, and rebuilding front hub. Fork link Bushings are sloppy and shocks are tired.anybody replaced the late Indian fork link bushings? New rotor and switching to a reverse pull. Ordered a Newfren rotor, but got drilled, oh well... Powder coat done and time to reassemble.
  25. 1 point
    You guys are the best! Seriously -- Thanks!
  26. 1 point
    Here is how I saved some nice cowl emblems on a series 2. I drilled hole in the back of the emblem where it was attached originally , I did a 2mm hole just deep enough not to go all the way through, I had an assortment of 2mm aluminum rivets and used them, I dipped the tip each rivet into JBWeld and inserted it into the holes that I drilled , let them set for a few days, then I clipped the heads off the rivets and layed a 2mm flat washer over the rivet, gave the rivet a smack. I got an assortment of 2mm rivets off ebay along with some 2mm washers, I think if I was to do it again I would use 2.5 rivets, the only reason I used 2mm is because I already had them
  27. 1 point
    WhatUp Lambretta Club! Working on my 1959 Series 2 project. I made a How To, set up the kick-start shaft and lever. It’s never this easy, but you might get lucky, and only have to do this! haha. a. The kick-start lever should be flat on the case stop. b. Loosen the 3 Cam bolts. c. Then slide the Cam by tapping it, in the direction, where the center of the piston pen, will stop inside zone (c). Tighten down the Cam bolts, close the case, and have fun! (Note: The extreme problems below are most likely caused by aftermarket Kick-start Levers and Shafts.) Kick-start - Engaging Motor Fix. Half or one piston/motor turnover, with one kick can be annoying. If the kick-start is set up correct, you should get 2 are more turnovers, with the force of one kick. A lot of times I would get one motor turnover, with one kick. This was the problem I had with my 1961 series 2 motor. In photo 1, the kick-start lever is down that far, when the kick-start piston-gear come out, and slide down the Cam guide. By the time the foot lever hit’s the ground, the motor only turns over once. Here’s how I worked on fixing this problem. I used vice-grips on the Cam. Locking the kick-start shaft in the spot, where the piston gear starts to come out. This is the position of the lever, with the shaft locked on the other side. The goal is to close gap (a), just before the piston gear comes out on the other side. The next thing to do, is rotated the kick-start lever up a few notch’s. Fitting flat under the case stop. A lot of times, it will only fit above the case stop. This is okay. My lever ended up fitting on, around (b) area. With the kick-start lever halfway on. Move the lever down and under the case stop, then push the lever all the way on. These are Cam guides for the kick-start piston gear. (d) Cam was in the motor. Cam (c) maybe an original series 1 or 2 part I found in my junk box, that I’m going to use now. With the new position of the lever, Cam (c) works better. I modify Cam (c) so it could slide further. The Cam was hitting the case at (b1) spot. This is a common problem with most Cam’s. The grading in photo 6, gave the Cam more distance to travel in the direction of (e). Just right! This is the way it should look. The piston-gear pin is ready to slide down the Cam guide, the moment you hit the kick-start lever. I thought about making the engage spot, faster in photo 8. It’s not necessary, but this will improve the engage speed! If you have the time and guts. Go for it. Just don’t screw up, haha! (Note: The angle of the cut has to be identical otherwise, the piston-gear pen will not slide back correct!) Anthony Armstrong - Dallas Texas AnthonyScooterWork.com ASD Scooter Designs
  28. 1 point
    The average speed was slow because we stopped many times, I missed the gas tap and did not know when the reserve came in. It is a fast flow adapted. En route in plain the motorcycle goes to 43 miles, descending to 53 and climbing mountain ports in second or first gears depending on the ramps
  29. 1 point
    Been riding this thing all summer. Running good but the stockish 175 setup really can't keep up with the Casa Superlight pipe....which everyone tells me is loud AF but i like it. 😈 float went bad and I snapped the rear shock as well but it was original and needed repacement anyway. Since getting her on the road realized the fork was bent so straightened that out in the press and rebuilt the whole thing and added BGM dampers.
  30. 1 point
    I'm in for a large. See you there.
  31. 1 point
    I figured it out. If your are looking at the headset from the top (with the light away from you), I went shift, shift, brake, clutch, throttle. Center front hole is loom and speedo.
  32. 1 point
    Also, the hall is not going to mind if you bring snacks for them.
  33. 1 point
    From 1956 here is what you can find on LD . "Pas à gauche" means left hand thread.
  34. 1 point
    ...final touches! I reshaped the edges of the air scoops with ALL METAL to make sure they follow the contour of the sidepanels.Then sanded them smooth to blend as much as possible. Once polished, they'll look a little darker so I had to make the area as small as possible. Final step, I masked the "grilles" and the inside of the scoop part, will be painted candy red like the sidepanels I will be sanding next week, painting the following one
  35. 1 point
    Nope, new SIL gear selector... S3 LI125 case w/ LI150 Gearbox, re-shimmed, RT195 kit, ScootRS kickstater to fit S3 engine with S1 body...
  36. 1 point
    I thought the LD/D shaft drive engines had outside lube holes for the fly-side bearings. Mine certainly did ('55 D150). They have inner and outer seals: So it's not getting lube from the mix. Regardless, pack them on assembly with modern grease and then there's no need re-grease them again. The lube "pipes" you show I have not seen before. This next page shows the ports I'm familiar with:
  37. 1 point
    ...speaking of tedious and frustrating... I had to send the small parts back to the blaster, and finally after 4 cycles they look good. However, they still had black spots in crevices difficult to reach, so I had to further attack them with wire weels, scotch brite and sandpaper Then I've air sanded everything with 80 grit, which allowed me to see 2 more dents on the fender and 1 on the glovebox that needed some additional hammer and dolly work. I've also decided to fix a bad spot on the plate holder and add two more coats to the horncast. I originally shot 3 coats with the touch up gun (1.0 tip) but that was not enough to hide the sanding marks. So i hit it with 120 and added to the parts I shot with the regular gun (1.8 tip) Done! Primer phase is now officilally over and in few days I'll start the bondo phase. Since I spent so much time with hammer and dolly, I should be left with just a bunch of very light corrections to be made I'm super happy, the war with rust is finally over. Unfortunately I had to battle the flash rust issue I had few days ago: crevices in the fender would start flash-rusting in minutes, so I had to take it down and hit it with metal brushed again right before painting. Texas weather is brutal.
  38. 1 point
    Pretty much what Adam X told me to do this weekend, and it works.
  39. 1 point
    Just picked this up in Seattle. it's a '63. Looks low mileage but in need of a paint job and motor rebuild. Hopefully I'll have it on the road this Spring. Thanks Ryan for the assist!
  40. 1 point
    Run bigger jets in the carb to account for the lack of air restriction. Look at those stock type wire mesh filters, those have to flow way more air than any pod filter and people are running them. Also, so be sure to oil the pod filter. That will restrict it a little also.
  41. 1 point
    Harmik at Planet Lambretta is a good resource too. He's on FB.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    The shear number of rides in this part of the country is staggering. Plus the city is a cornucopia of things to do and see with many higher up on the weird/cool meter. Also there is arguably one of the best soul nights in the states and one of the prettiest scooter clubs around (LGG).
  44. 1 point
    It is all paint. Ppg Dcc concept. No powdercoat. Just like it came from factory. Heidenau tires. Thanks !
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    After the final alignment check I've disassembled everything and sent frame, fork, wheels hubs and misc bits to the powder coaters and took off for a week vacation. When I get back , I will send the panels to a media blaster and paint them myself. In the meantime I'm working on a different project...a clock reproduction and LED lighting for clock and speedo. I've gone through several prototypes, I'm finally getting very close. The backlighting will be connected to the main switch so it will work in sync with the lights. The clock will feature a quartz movement, look cosmetically identical to the OEM, but it will be battery operated. The battery should last a couple of years (compared to 2 days of the manual winding of the OEM clock). Changing battery and setting the time can be achieved by simply reaching inside the glovebox.
  47. 1 point
    Casa makes a kit and So does Scootopia . Scootopia makes a kit with a ethanol resistant float . They are pretty easy to rebuild - in fact there are some videos on u tube to help. Cheers
  48. 1 point
    Have u opened up the carb and replaced needle? Give it a good cleaning and order a scootopia rebuild kit ?
  49. 1 point
    Now sorted by dellorto uk who have sold me a black float £22 or $32 for you. They tell me the uk market carbs now only have black floats and any carb with white/clear floats are for other markets and are usually supplied via Germany. They wouldn't tell me what market but it isn't Germany
  50. 1 point
    i've had it happen multiple times on certain scooters that run a Delly Si carb. Its a common problem usually blamed on ethanol blended fuel. bin the float and order a new one. not worth your time to attempt to melt. check your needle while your at it. if possible always use gas with no additives.