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  1. Today
  2. EuroSchwagg 2017 Contest #7

    The most reliable Vespa ever built.
  3. Yesterday
  4. EuroSchwagg 2017 Contest #7

    Ran when parked.
  5. suggestions on how to seal patina (rust)

    Not nearly as 'orange' as the leggy on your TV, eh? My old brain is failing me 🙃
  6. suggestions on how to seal patina (rust)

    This works well. If it's in a particularly terrible state like my Series 1, you can spray paint in with a satin or flat clear coat.
  7. 20 to 24 ?

    Yes and oriented correctly.
  8. suggestions on how to seal patina (rust)

    here is the series 1 when I found it
  9. suggestions on how to seal patina (rust)

    I wash everything with purple power diluted and clean real good. then I can soak some parts in evaporust or use evaporust with blue towels and syran wrap in big areas. use it for 12-24 hours and need to repeat if heavy rust. then clean and buff and wax. Yes, Scott that was a good one. here is a few pics of my TV200 that I did .
  10. suggestions on how to seal patina (rust)

    I love (and own) 'scruffy' motos, but if you're in a wet/humid area that's a lot of 'patina' to keep in a static state. If you go the rust 'arrest' mode with one of the common products used by we connoisseurs of oxidation, you're going to have a lot of black patches where the arrestor does its job - kinda ugly. I don't let the actual orange rust build up - I use mega fine steel wool or scotch brite pads to remove it, then McGuires (sp?) wax to protect it. We are very dry here, so I can get away with doing that a couple times a year if I'm not riding in a lot of rain. My scooters are garaged too. Surface rust if unattended will become structural, no good of course. If it's original paint you'll have better luck too than with a respray. My '59 S1 that I got from Mike in Portland (and now owned by a buddy here in Denver) was very orange in spots when he found it, but it buffed out beautifully to its factory colors (blue and white). My Silver Special isn't nearly as nice, but the previous owner monkey'd with the paint a bit. Patina can be a lot of work to keep in check, but it's only original once, eh? (I can hear puking in the audience from that statement 😀). Good luck!
  11. suggestions on how to seal patina (rust)

    To be a little more clear, I would consider cleaning it up (wash all parts) buff it out with wizards, then just oil it consistently with acf50. Lots of elbow grease, not a lot of $, looks fantastic
  12. suggestions on how to seal patina (rust)

    stu thanks for the info. *how can i move this to paint and bodywork?
  13. suggestions on how to seal patina (rust)

    nah no money for paint and this one is going to be kept on the street.
  14. suggestions on how to seal patina (rust)

    I just wipe mine down with acf 50 but i dont ride in the rain. You could try gun oil or othere products for keeping fire arms from rusting too. Here is a link to a discussion that might be helpful It really depends on the final look you are going for. If you clear coat with paint or powder coat it will look shiney and could possibly yellow with age. If you just oil it you have to keep up with it and watch the weather.... Also, can this topic be moved to Painting bodywork info?
  15. J range Headset

    I think I got it sorted out. The 1 cable was too far back and worked its way out and up the gap. I suspect it was when I put the headset on and it was in the wrong spot. Still, post up what you find. The customer is picking this thing up on Thursday and I need a day to make any changes if I have to Wish I could keep this one, it's a total beater looking bike with a mechanical rebuild. First kick starter.
  16. J range Headset

    I have several headsets around I can take pictures of. I kinda forget too, but the headset must have the outer cable housings, because the clamp is just a small piece. Is it a proper J range cable outer? Or specific lambretta for that matter? I've never had trouble with the outer gear cables coming out. Perhaps routed wrong? I seem to remember questioning the cable routing on our starstream. Fortunately, I had a complete cento handy to look at. I sort of remember them going on the opposite "cable/wire slot" than what you would think. I wanna say all cables went in the back, and just speedo and wiring went in the front slot? I can check more in depth tomorrow though.
  17. 20 to 24 ?

    Did u install new motor mounts ?
  18. Good old rustoleum clear, lots of coats...
  19. suggestions on how to seal patina (rust)

    Paint? I just did a Google search and came up with this https://www.google.com/search?q=rust+remover&oq=rust+remover&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.2288j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 lots of options. More if you have a way to submerge the big parts.
  20. Last week
  21. I am trying to figure out how to preserve my nicely rusted s2. Does anyone have a good method of sealing in patina?
  22. 20 to 24 ?

    I think I have asked this before, but is it the stock port timing that creates so much vibration in this motor ? I am learning to keep things towards the top of each gear. And of course , anything I did would be reversible.
  23. 20 to 24 ?

    The trouble with any carb or exhaust change is that most likely you'll need to grind the barrel out to match things. Not sure I would do that to a tv200 barrel. If you ever did decide you wanted to play around with the top end, I might shelf the tv barrel and start with a GP200 set up. You can get them pretty cheap. Then you can grind away guilt free!
  24. 20 to 24 ?

    OK thanks. I was just wondering . I guess it is going about as well as it could right now in stock form and really, the gearing is actually quite nice for these roads with the long 2nd and 3rd.
  25. I have a LC Swiss decal, EuroLam LC Ulster decal, EuroLam 2014 Swiss decal, 70th Anniversary LC Ulster decal, LC Ulster Banner, and a Med LC Ireland shirt!! here is your picture good luck!
  26. 20 to 24 ?

    I can attest that the 20mm stock carb can get you going really fast if you get the right exhaust and free up the air intake (wire mesh filter, keep the hose and airbox, remove the air scoop under the seat) a bit. I had an sh1/20 on my deanspeed 190 with a boomstick ds and my series III was really fast (maybe 70mph on the freeway). I only switched to a phbl 24mm b/c I could not get the jetting (low/mid) tuned in for the expansion chamber. The lack of a slide needle on the SH1/20 was the issue. I suggest trying out different exhausts short of an expansion chamber and increasing airflow, but leave on the sh1/20. Here's the carb kit I bought. http://jet200.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2340
  27. 20 to 24 ?

    At that point you're getting in to custom tuning. There is no factory 24 option. You'd need to replace the intake manifold and get a Dellorto PHBH 24 ( I think, that or a PHBL I can never remember) or Mikuni TM24. Since you're going with the bigger carb you might as well go with the less restricted exhaust. Here's the rub, in my experience the TV200 gear box only likes stock or VERY tuned motors. Anything in between tends to be pretty gutless and annoying. I think you should get a beater LI and put a stupid fast build in it. That will satisfy the need for speed and not devalue the TV200.
  28. 20 to 24 ?

    Now that I finally have this TV200 running like it should I wonder if going to a 24 carb would help its top end. It goes pretty darn well but just seems to sort of peter out at the top of 2nd and 3rd. I seriously don't think there is any more adjusting to do with what I have. I have a 24 on my 180 V and it's great.
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